Friday, July 14, 2018
New men’s collections have just come out of Paris after London and Milan. The French capital is known for its unconventional approach to fashion. The inspiration for many designs seem to be a dusty world, a world of unclarity and decay, which it can be argued, is a good reflection of today’s world at large. In many ways, it seems that designers don’t build as many clothes as they break down. There are many good looks out there, and here are just a few examples.
The beautiful color-daub prints, similarly daubed models, and fitted-tight biker leathers, brushstroke satin embroideries, and graffiti jacquard suits. Cut, pieced and patched trench coats, hunting jackets, pinstripes, knits, shirting and military clothing realized with the power and immediacy of a broad-brush stroke. The strength of character, individuality, and creativity. Jackets are fitted with a square shoulder and a narrow waist, empowering and empowered. Trousers are striped with lust red and optic white.
Hand-painting and embroidery are abstract with bold embroidered brushstrokes. That might explain the chunky outerwear, which felt somewhat at odds with the season. Nonetheless, it made for a poetic vision and one that ultimately celebrated human skill. It shone through in the raw beauty of tufted jacquard, used inside out on a jacket and coat. A black coat, embroidered with a glittering tree of life, was a ravishing example of wearable art.
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have turned their performance presentations for Kenzo into something of a tradition. The Kenzo crew envisioned an underground garden party where guys and girls congregated for some sort of vibrant and splashy special occasion.
Accordingly, they dressed up: in color-blocked ladylike looks and rakish fluorescent check suits; in semi-sheer flounced dresses or patterned knit tops with extra-roomy pants and in various ratios of electric blue, saffron, magenta, and bottle green. A jacket and pants in a loud check were matched with a jelly-like green rubber T-shirt. For slightly more adventurous types, there were suit jackets with gathered nylon panels in the back.
The designer continued with the athletic references, her take on the elevated lifestyle. The tailored jogging pants added to the man-on-the-move mood, revisited in different colors including light yellows blended with a sharply tailored blazer. The tennis-style short shorts added to the retro athletic undertone of the collection. The on-trend three-button leather suit in a light shade of stone, worn without a shirt, showed a new sensuality.
Adding to details like the prints and the draping of the clothing, the collection’s color palette, with the combination of shades moving from saturated tones to pastels, was beautiful. An enlarged camouflage print on a sweatshirt had a painterly Cubist feel, with hippy-luxe tie-dye bags playing off the collection’s bright colors.
Also, the standout was the silky blousons with side zippers, at times gathered at the back, and a look combining a bottle-green track pant with a bold blue and white side stripe and a super-thin graphic sweater with a zipper. The elegant fine knits with ripple accents or python effects were dreamy in a collection that exuded pure luxe fashion.
We live in a world where designers have very clear and distinct voices. This is definitely an advantage, as it allows customers to know exactly where to go for the type of clothes they desire. Having a strong voice in the fashion world today is essential, as one needs to stand out and be clear what their take is in order to be easily identifiable in the sea of voices and views. It could be very well that we find ourselves in a moment of ending, with a new shift on the horizon, but that horizon is still far and the first rays of the new sun have not come yet.