Saturday, September 15, 2018
Twice a year, the women of New York, and really all around the world, gather together to celebrate their love of fashion. Between the parties, presentations and of course the glamorous runway shows, us fashion lovers wait on pins and needles to see the breathtaking spectacle that is fashion week.
Yves Saint Laurent
Ten years after the death ofYves Saint Laurent, the brand he founded remains an imposing presence on the fashion landscape. Vaccarello explained that he was trying to recreate Yves Saint Laurent’s own wardrobe. That meant high waists, cropped jackets, lapelled leather jackets, tight black trousers, and fine shirts that were more akin to blouses, and shot with gold, adorned with paisley or – of course – in leopard print, worn half-buttoned, denim hoodies, tangled necklaces, belted saharienne jackets and black grosgrain boating hats. It was mostly black, save some prints and heavily sequined tops and jackets. Towards the end came a heavy, black ursine jacket, which made a noise as it passed. The take-home image was the finale, when the male models appeared topless, sprayed in silver and wearing “feminine” sequin trousers.
PHOTO: Source: www.orientpalms.com
Herrera’sdeparture comes during a season of change for New York Fashion Week. Mid-career designers are decamping for Paris, and younger talents are reconsidering the usefulness of expensive, twice-yearly fashion shows in a digital age that requires constant new content. Whimsical, wild cat prints filled in for the charming florals she favors. Herrerahas always been fond of three-dimensional, tremblant embroideries, and we saw feathers here and beaded fringe, as well. She also loves an awning stripe, and we got one in the form of the show-closing strapless gown. The finale was testament to the power of simplicity: a parade of white button-downs; wide belts; bold, contrast-color taffeta ball skirts and evening slippers. White jacket–clad members of Herrera’s atelier, who watched the show from the museum’s mezzanine level, joined the designer on the runway for her bow. It was a moving scene.
There was an excellent navy wrap coat later in the show, and the season’s requisite oversize trench in rust twill. A plaid jacquard parka made a bolder statement; it was layered over a scarf-print minidress. The combination of masculine outerwear and floaty, ethereal dresses has become somewhat of a mini-trend this week, and it’s a look the Self-Portraitgirl can get behind.
Those who know the brand for its structured guipure lace dresses might notice they weren’t a focus here. Hang Chong’s attempt to evolve that look — while keeping those customers happy, included a lacy top tucked into a satin miniskirt and a loose, fishnet-y white lace dress with trailing ties. Dresses are still his bread and butter, but the fluid, streamlined ones were stronger propositions.
New York Fashion Week got a bit of its groove back this season. Designers across the board appeared to be swept up in a fervent, anything-goes type of excitement and creativity for Spring 2019, and in spite of the nonstop rain, the week was fun and it felt buzzy. The New York Fashion Week ended with a number of items which are available from the runway immediately after the show.